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The ubiquitous Chrysler 4.0L inline-six was (and is) perhaps one of the best engines ever offered in a 4x4. Depending on chassis and model year, these engines carried a net power rating of 173-195hp and 220-235lb-ft. As delivered in bone-stock trim the '91-'06 High-Output 4.0L engine found in Jeep Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and Comanche vehicles generally lays down 130-140hp and 175-185 lb-ft at the rear tires. That's right in keeping with a standard 25-percent parasitic drivetrain loss, or the power required to spin all the rotating components inside the transmission, T-case, driveshaft, axles, and so on.
So, if the 4.0L is so good, why bother trying to make it better? Why not! With a few simple modifications that can be performed all at once or one at a time as funds permit, you can up your HO 4.0L's power by 20 hp and 20 lb-ft at the rear tires. And even the low-po '87-'90 Renix-injected engines respond well to some of these mods.
Don't think 20 hp and 20 lb-ft sounds like a lot? Keep in mind the difference between a "pedestrian" 5.2L Grand Cherokee and the nearly legendary 5.9L Grand Cherokee is only 25 hp/35 lb-ft. And the difference between a 5.0L Camaro and a 5.7L IROC-Z is 15 hp/45 lb-ft. So dust off that credit card and upsize your power without upsizing your engine.
The factory filter and air box offers a slight restriction in intake air flow. However, the convoluted ducting is something else. The manufacturers are often more concerned with maintaining low NVH levels than maximum power, so shaped and chambered air ducting that cancels or muffles the intake air charge noise is what's under your stock Jeep's hood. Replacing the entire shebang with a high-flow cold-air intake system and filter will not only give you a noticeable bump in seat-of-the-pants acceleration and power, but it often results in a 1-2 mpg improvement in fuel economy. Just be prepared; you will hear some more whistling and whooshing when you mat the gas pedal.
The factory throttle body on a 4.0L HO engine is 60mm in diameter. There are plenty of 62mm (and even 68mm) aftermarket options available to allow your 4.0L to ingest more air. Generally, the bored throttle body will only make a noticeable difference from the driver's seat if you're running an air intake, high-flow exhaust, and maybe a header. We don't really think going larger than a 62mm throttle body is advisable on a naturally aspirated 4.0L for a couple reasons. First, the plenum bore on the intake needs to be opened up or there will be a misstep that can actually hinder flow. Second, the big throttle body can actually reduce the intake velocity, hurting performance at slower engine speeds. The 62mm size offers a good balance between increased airflow and intake velocity in non-supercharged or turbocharged applications.
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